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The Fine Print:
Shipping:
My shipping costs reflect actual postage, cost of mailing supplies, and time spent packing and mailing. Ideally I would like to offer free shipping, as most ebay buyers just figure the cost of shipping into what they bid. However, since ebay does not charge fees on shipping, I do charge for shipping costs.
If paying by Paypal: Any purchase of $50 or more must add Delivery Confirmation for 0.65. Any purchase totaling 250 dollars or more means the buyer will need to add 2.10 signature confirmation. These requirements are based on the Paypal user agreement. I don’t care for this agreement, but I didn’t come up with it. If you don't purchase these, you will be able to get a refund from paypal if coin is lost, however, you will still owe me the money that paypal will take out of my account. You will need to add these charges to your invoice, or you can wait for me to invoice you with proper fees, which I will promptly send out at end of auction.
I prefer checks, as this method saves me Paypal fees. I would love to offer incentive for people to send checks, but that is against ebay/paypal policy.
Insurance rates: Insurance is optional but always recommended. The rates are as follows:
Up to $50: 1.65
$50 to $200: 2.45
$200 to $300: 4.60
$300 and up: 4.60 plus 90 cents per $100
What if you don’t purchase insurance or delivery confirmation? I can only provide proof I shipped an item to your zipcode, and will in no other way be responsible for lost items.
Do I Combine Shipping? Yes, I certainly do on all individual coins for 3.25 unless otherwise noted in the auction. Items that are bulky (such as proof sets) will have discounted combined shipping. Please enquire on these items.
General:
I am a collectors dealer, and try to provide problem free, original, eye appealing coins as well as hard to find dates as often as I can. There is a lot of hype coming from a lot of ebay coin sellers. You won’t get that from me. If I say something is super nice, then I really mean it. I believe Ebay is fun not only because you can find such a diversity of coins, but also because of the joy of participating in an auction. This is why I try to offer true auctions that start at 1 cent as often as I can. My Ebay Store also allows buyers to make best offers on most items. If you have less than 5 feedback, please limit your bids to coins under 200 dollars. I reserve the right to cancel bids from bidders with less than a 95 percent feedback rating.
Coin Photos: Unless otherwise noted, photos are of the coins you will receive. On some modern coins I have in bulk, such as proof singles, a stock photo may be used. Pictures of coins so often do not tell the true story of the coin. I do my best to describe the piece to the best of my ability. Always feel free to ask for larger size pictures, or even a picture of the coin from a different angle!
Grading:
I don't try to grade liberally or conservatvely. I grade the coins I'm selling as I would if I putting the same coin away in my own personal collection . ANA and Photograde are helpful sometimes, yet very often are lacking in helping assign a grade. I often believe a coin has two grades, one reflecting its wear as it appears, and one reflecting its true market grade/value and true amount of wear. For instance, many half dimes were struck with almost no leaf detail on the reverse right off the press. Are these coins instantly a VF? No, of course not. At the same time, most collectors would prefer a sharply struck coin. I'd rather have a nice, sharply struck XF problem free coin to a mushy VF detail MS 63 any day. Since grade ultimately reflects value (though perhaps it shouldn't!), I assign a grade mostly based on assumed value. In other words, if a Bust Half Dollar might, say, be graded by PCGS as AU 50, but the strike is mushy, and the coin has unappealing toning, I would likely grade that coin VF 35 or XF 40. However, if a Seated Liberty Half Dollar has only 2 letters of Liberty, but has much detail otherwise, and is original and choice looking, I might grade it a Fine 15 or even VF 20 instead of Good 6 or Very Good 8. In the end, though, my grade isn't what's important. What's important is that I supply quality pictures and descriptions so that you can assign a value yourself, which is what I try to do.
Returns:
My return policy is quite subjective. I will not refund for buyers remorse. However, I do understand that sometimes when you receive a coin in the mail that does not look like the pictures you saw, it can be very disappointing. So, it’s a judgement call on my part if I will or will not refund on any given coin. That said, I have never had to say no to anyone who has asked to return a coin. All coins must be kept in original holders to be eligible for returning, and I must be contacted within 7 days of receipt of coin. Full purchase price minus shipping costs and ebay/paypal fees will be refunded.
If you have any problems with you order(s), please let me know! I have 100 percent feedback and intend to keep it that way. Quality service is what I’m all about.
Up for auction is this georgeous 1979 Proof 100 Rufiyaa piece from the Maldives. This piece has a platry mintage of 8,000 pieces and is made out of .925 silver for an actual silver weight of .8327oz. Great light tone over the whole coin. Lists at 32.50 in "Spinks Catalogue of British Colonial and Commonwealth Coins" from 1986. Where are the Maldives exactly? The Maldives are an archipelago of 2,000 coral islets in the northern Indian Ocean and has a population identical to the city of Rockford, IL which I live in: 155,000 (The Maldives sound more interesting). Super crown size piece, starts at 1 cent, no reserve!
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